I know, it's strange-- a food-obsessed couple lives in Portland for 4 years, and never eats at Fore Street. Well, it's just one of those things. In the past, whenever the subject has come up, there's always somewhere else to go if we're looking for dinner on the more expensive side of the spectrum: Hugo's, Caiola's... But Jenn and Matt invited us to join then for New Year's Eve dinner, which seemed like the perfect opportunity to find out what all of the fuss is about. (#16 in Gourmet's American top 50 restaurants; James Beard best chef award, etc. etc.) We even got all dolled up-- ties, suits, little black dresses-- the works. I even wore makeup, which people who know me will concur only occurs on occasions of the utmost seriousness.

Overall: it was a truly delicious meal, and I'm glad we went. However, I have the feeling that we just won't be adding Fore Street to our regular rotation.

When we arrived, I was impressed by the space; it's a cavernous former warehouse, which somehow manages to feel cozy. Irritatingly they were out of hangars for our coats, but Matt discovered some hooks in the bar, so that problem was solved. Our table was next to a gorgeous mullioned window, and thankfully, a nice functional heater. (I can't imagine what their heating bills must be with that enormous drafty space. So sue me, it's been an expensive winter so far, it's on my mind.) Our waitress was wonderful, and not pushy at all; she brought us our drinks (3 Manhattans and a dirty gin martini) quickly and didn't pressure us to order.

We decided to start with two appetizers: finnan haddie and a combo of Maine shrimp in horseradish cream (the menu described it as 'shocked,' whatever that means) paired with smoked scallops and a little salad of baby arugula. Both were delicious. The shrimp were raw; that way the sweetness of the shrimp, and their slightly soft texture, stood out. The light dressing barely tasted of horseradish, but then again it didn't really need to; the shrimp flavor was perfect. The smoked scallops were something of an afterthought to the plate, I thought; there were only two, and they were fine but not outstanding. The finnan haddie was lovely; it was served with toast points and its creamy sauce was delectable. I used some of our table bread to sop up the sauce from the plate. (Note: Jenn didn't seem that enthusiastic about this one, but I didn't have a chance to ask her why.)

When it was time to order our entrees, everyone but me went for the duck, and I ordered the spit-roasted Quebec pork over Morse's sauerkraut. We also ordered a side of garlic mashed potatoes and a side of roasted beets, to share. Our entrees were all delicious; Otis literally ate every single edible crumb of meat from off his plate. My pork was crusty on the outside and juicy on the inside--cooked just right-- and the sauerkraut was wonderful. The beets were tasty, although not remarkable (but how is it possible to make roasted beets remarkable, really?). The mashed, the same. The four of us shared a dessert, some sort of chocolate yumminess with cinnamon sorbet.

All in all it was a lovely dinner, and not outrageously priced. So why do I say we probably won't be adding it to our rotation? I think, honestly, it's the philosophy of the restaurant: simplicity. I'm not trying to say that I want all sorts of crazy ingredients, like chocolate and cheddar and peppers mixed together or something like that. But personally, I love complex, layered flavors, and Otis is the same. When we go out, we want to try new things and experience complex flavors. It's sort of like the contrast between an English and a Continental aesthetic-- English food soars when it's a single, simple item, cooked perfectly. That can be the case with French or Italian as well-- and certainly both approaches require the best, freshest ingredients-- but the French, the Italians, the Spanish, all excel when they layer flavors, combining fresh herbs and fresh ingredients in a kind of alchemy. My personal preference definitely leans toward the latter, and Fore Street's approach is decidedly the former.

So, I really have no complaints about our meal, which was masterfully prepared within its merits, or the service, which was truly outstanding. It just didn't excite the hell out of me.